How I Grind and Adjust a Fountain Pen Nib

Before anything else, I want to clearly emphasize that grinding or adjusting a fountain pen nib is always done at your own risk. Any modification to the nib can result in partial or complete loss of functionality. Before attempting any work yourself, seriously consider using the services of a professional nibmeister or an official brand service center.

So why do I grind nibs myself at all? In most cases, the pens I work on are Montblanc. The reason is simple: if a Montblanc nib is deemed faulty and sent to the brand’s service center, it is typically replaced entirely, not repaired. The original nib is swapped one-for-one, regardless of the issue. In that scenario, I effectively have nothing to lose. Even if I were to damage the nib, it would be replaced anyway—so I see it as an opportunity to explore what adjustments are possible on my own.

The most common reason for nib grinding is an unpleasant writing feel. The pen may scratch, catch on the paper, or behave inconsistently depending on the writing direction. Very often, this is caused by a microscopic misalignment of the tines. Gentle grinding or polishing can correct these imperfections and dramatically improve the writing experience.

Nib grinding can also be useful when dealing with manufacturing defects, such as the well-known baby’s bottom issue. In this case, the nib struggles to start writing and frequently skips, especially under light pressure. A properly adjusted nib can restore reliable ink flow and consistent starts.

Another important reason to adjust a nib is personal customization. Everyone holds a pen at a slightly different angle and applies pressure differently. Grinding allows the nib to be tuned so that it writes smoothly at your natural writing angle and with your personal hand movement.

Nib modification is also commonly used to change the character of the line. For example, a standard nib can be transformed into a cursive italic or stub, or adjusted to create more line variation and contrast. This is particularly popular among collectors and people who write extensively by hand.

On the other hand, nib grinding is not recommended if the pen already writes smoothly, evenly, and without issues. This is especially true for expensive or limited-edition pens, where an unskilled modification can significantly reduce both value and originality.

In short, nib grinding can be a powerful tool—but only when done with clear intent, proper understanding, and respect for the risks involved.

WARNING: Grinding a nib permanently removes material from it. If you are working with an expensive, historical, or limited-edition pen, it is always better to entrust the work to a professional nib specialist. If you are a beginner, practice exclusively on an inexpensive pen.

What You Will Need

  • Micro-abrasive papers or Mylar sheets (approximately 3000–12,000 grit)
  • Smooth, fountain-pen-friendly paper (e.g. FMP Notebook no.1, Rhodia, Clairefontaine)
  • A loupe or, at the very least, strong, focused lighting
  • Water (a single drop on the abrasive surface)
  • Patience

How to Smooth and Tune a Fountain Pen Nib

A careful, methodical approach to nib adjustment. Work slowly, test often, and stop the moment the nib improves.

1

Identify the problem

Be absolutely clear about why you want to adjust the nib:

  • Does the nib feel scratchy?
  • Does it skip?
  • Does it write only in one direction?
  • Do you want a different line character (italic, stub)?
Rule: Without a clear goal, do not grind.
2

Check tine alignment first

Most issues are caused by misaligned tines, not by the tipping shape.

  • Inspect the nib head-on with a loupe.
  • If one tine sits higher, gently correct it using finger or nail pressure.
This is not grinding and can solve up to 80% of problems.
3

Start with the finest abrasive

Never begin with coarse grit.

  • Recommended: 8000–12000 grit or Mylar.
  • Add a single drop of water to the surface.
4

Simulate real writing

Always grind at the same angle you naturally write with.

  • Small figure-eights
  • Short vertical and horizontal strokes
  • Minimal pressure only
  • 3–5 strokes → inspect → test writing
Never grind continuously without checking.
5

Test writing constantly

After every micro-adjustment:

  • Write a few full sentences
  • Check start-up behavior
  • Check smoothness and flow
  • Test multiple writing directions
If it improves, stop immediately.
6

Final gentle polishing

If the nib works but still feels slightly dry or rough:

  • Use the finest grit or Mylar only
  • Apply just a few light strokes
Goal: polishing, not material removal.

What to avoid

  • applying excessive pressure
  • long grinding sessions without frequent testing
  • changing the writing angle during grinding
  • trying to “improve it just a little more” once the nib already writes well

When to stop and consult a professional

  • if the pen continues to skip
  • if ink flow becomes worse
  • if you want a specialized grind (cursive italic, architect, flex modifications)
  • if the pen is valuable, rare, or historically significant

I Dropped the Pen and Bent the Nib

Every “proper” pen collector knows that sinking feeling—the moment a pen slips from your hand, especially when it falls nib-first. Fountain pen nibs are relatively soft, and even a short fall can bend them in unexpected ways. This has happened to me three times, and remarkably, I managed to fix all three nibs myself. I didn’t use any special tools—just my hands—and in two cases, the pens actually write better now than they did before.

You should expect to get your hands dirty, and I strongly recommend attempting any correction immediately after the damage occurs. The most important thing is to ensure that the nib sits flush against the feed all the way to the tip, and that both tines are perfectly aligned where the nib is split. Using only my fingers, I carefully adjusted both sides until everything sat exactly where it should.

This is not a five-minute job. In some cases, it took me over an hour before I was fully satisfied. The result, however, was worth it—there is no visible deformation left, and the nibs perform flawlessly. You can see in the photos how they look now after my very much non-professional repair.

This process is truly a mix of science and patience. You need to work slowly, make tiny adjustments, and constantly move toward the result step by step. Once you think you’re done, test the pen and see how it writes—then adjust again if needed.

The same rule applies here as before: you can try, and in many cases it can be fixed—even if you make it slightly worse at first. Steel nibs are a bit more complicated; while they are generally more durable, they are also significantly harder to reshape compared to gold nibs.

Patience, a gentle touch, and respect for the material are absolutely key.

2 Comments:

  • Emre Says: on 20. December 2025

    Hello, thank you for this great guide. Could I ask why do you use dremel?

    Reply

    • filip Says: on 20. December 2025

      Thank you for the question. I use a Dremel only in the final stage of nib adjustment, exclusively for polishing with a soft rotating cloth. It is not used for grinding or shaping the nib, and no material is removed. All grinding and shaping is done by hand. The Dremel is used only to achieve an even, gentle polish at very low speed.

      Reply

Say something! :